Different Types of Cameras and Lenses. *Work In Progress*

Cameras 

Bridge Camera 

Bridge cameras are cameras don't require an attachable lens because they're usually have a fixed lens. It's a smaller and more compacted version of a SLR'S and have a smaller sensor.

SLR Camera 

An SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras are a lot different to bridge cameras. Different from the bridge camera, you can take the lens off of the camera and have the body only, making it your choice and personalise and change the lens to what type of work your doing. It also has a lager sensor.

Compact Camera

The compact camera is a common camera that a "normal" family takes on holiday. Same as the bridge camera you can't change lens. Its also smaller than the SLR's and about the same size as bridge. Another term for this camera is the "Point and Shoot" camera. 

Polaroid Camera 













Polaroid came about in the 1940's. They were the first instant camera that had a camera and a darkroom inside it, then after a few seconds it prints the image you took out the front of the camera. You could not remove the lens on this camera. 

Lenses 


The Prime Lens

The prime lens is a fixed focal length. They have focal lengths from 8mm to 800mm. The largest aperture is f/1.4 and the smallest is f/22.

Zoom Lens (Internal Focus)

The fixed lens go from 200mm to 800mm. When you zoom into the subject it does so inside the lens.

Zoom Lens (Externally Focus)

The external zoom lens can go from 20mm to 300mm. When you focus or zoom into the subject the lens itself move backwards and forwards. 

Studio Work.

Some Shots In Studio

Iconic Photo I have re-created.

This photo was taken by Czech photographer Josef Koudelka. It was taken in Prague in 1968.

    

                                            

Experimental Imagery in Photography HDR.

Experimental Imagery in Photography HDR

Today I went out to do some experimental HDR photography. I went local per usual and went straight to the Custard Factory. Just before you enter the Custard Factory I took this photo.

This photo used a technique call bracketing. I love how it captured the grey sky it looks like the sky is boiling across the whole city but you can see the sun peering through the arch of the brick bridge. The photo to me looks very apocalyptic. 







































As soon as I saw the opportunity to take this photo I jumped straight away. I like this photo just because the way the girl is under the sign and is pointing to something.  I also like how the the pole and the shape of the sign leads the photo. This photo leads to many questions..... 
The image has been HDR using three images. Under the bridge was dark and the building in the background. Using HDR allowed me to see under the bridge and allow the photo to reach it's full potential. 

This photo was taken at Ward End Park. Whilst walking through the park I noticed this tree. It stood out to me because the view it has behind it also the greenery it is surrounding it. This photo defiantly needed to use HDR. Simply because if I took the photo the sky would be too bright and you couldn't see all the branches. I also love how the grass is glowing off of the sun. 


What went wrong??

Although I like the photo their are some things wrong. The first thing is the van in the background. I took three images and combined them together and it looks like the van is moving. 
Secondly I was moving too much hence why the sign was blurry.
I now learned you need to wait for the right time to the photo and to get the best result use a tripod. 

HDR Experimental Research

This technique is useful for this photo because the photographer wanted to capture the colours of the sunset while still feeling the coldness blue by the barn. 
It's beautiful how the photographer has captured the deep dark blue of the barn and then the sun rays pop out to seek attention. The halo around the barn also is seeking attention also above the to colours of light, the middle shows a purple. 

The only useful technique to use for this photo would be bracketing because if you were to take the photo the light of the sky would be blocking the top of the Eiffel Tower. 
With the dark grey skies above the Eiffel Tower.
The dark skies gives the Eiffel Tower a sinister look. 

Once again inside the Notre Dame you defiantly would need bracketing because the highest point inside would be dark. By using this technique you can see the amazing colours inside Notre Dame. From the gorgeous bright blue to the oak wood benches. 

3 Iconic Photos that I've re-created (Updating)

The first photo I wanted to re-create was this one of Michael Caine. I have saw this photo many times in magazines. When my tutor asked to re-create iconic photos I instantly thought of this photo.

First I tried to get the lighting correct. I used only one
light at a forty five degree angle. In the lightbulb there is five light bulbs and I only used three to get the soft shadow on his right hand side.

In David Bailey's photo Michaels's jacket is completely blacked out. In Photoshop I applied a black paint on the jacket and then overlaid it so you can see the zips on the coat. For the shirt I done the exact same thing like the jacket I applied a white coat over the shirt but instead I done it twice. After I completed these two things I found a tie on the internet cut it down to size and make it fit. 

The next photo I used is of Robert (Bobby) Fischer. Many consider that bobby was the greatest chess player of all time. When I re-created this photo I was not sure what I was going to do. Then I came up with and great idea.

The chess piece above in front of Bobby is a king. I had a Lego minifigures and on of those 

 to be a king. Using the same setup as the Michael Caine photo for lighting I placed the king in front of my friend. When looking at the photo on Photoshop I realised that the king was too small and wasn't lining up with the right eye like it its in the original photo. So I masked the king made it bigger and too match the original photo. 

Studio Photography for Richard Hamilton.

The lighting set up was a snoot directly above the subject. Somebody help lift the snoot over the subject while it was laying on a table with a white background all around. I used spot meter on the bottle. In Photoshop I removed the shadow underneath the bottle to give it a lonely feel. I sharpened the image. I find this image a success because I wanted to give the bottle a lonely spotlight feel and this is what I achieved. 

I used two main lights in this photo  at 45 degree angle. In Photoshop I only changed the sharpness of the photo because it wasn't shining enough. I put the lights in this position because I wanted shadow on the right hand side. I found this photo successful because I got the angle and shadow I desired. 

This photo I used two light bulbs to light the background and facing down at angle to fully light the background and five as a main light. Main light used a diffuser which was set at 45 degree to the bottles . Behind the subject I used white paper and sat the subject upon a table. In Photoshop I removed major lighting shines on the left bottle.

On this photo I used a 105mm lens to capture the full detail of the perfume bottle top.

It was lit by using two 500w lights. I the background I used white wallpaper and I also used the shine reflector which was made with a piece of wood with tin foil taped to it.

In Photoshop I used the colour balance to remove a tungsten red colour cast from the photo. I cloned stamped some of the reflections out of the glass bottle itself. 

In this photo I used a 55mm lens to capture the whole bottle and the some of the background. I wanted to also get the background in to show you how really bright and golden the perfume bottle really is. Also one again we used the home made shine reflector. We held the reflector at an angle so the bottle was fully illuminated. We first tried the reflector vertical but cast a black shadow on the bottom of the bottle and I found as I increased the angle with the reflector the shadow diminished. In Photoshop I used the spot healing brush too remove the scratches and dents in the bottle. As always I sharpen the image to give it a crisp feeling. 

In this image I used a 55mm lens to capture the wide spread of the bottles. I used two constant lights on 45 degree angle and a flash gun bounced off an umbrella. Originally the bottle were behind a green coloured paper background, also the bottles were separated too. In Photoshop I firstly made a vibrate green gradient background. Then I lasso tooled the bottles copied and pasted them and moved them together. 

In this photo I done the same exact same thing as the one above I had the two constant lights at a 45 degree angle. I had a white background but that did not matter because I was going to edit it in Photoshop. In Photoshop I replaced the background with a blue gradient and removed the major shine on the bottle. I also use colour balance because it had a tungsten glow on the original photo.